![]() ![]() Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 Art Lens offers a focal range that makes it useful for a number of different genres of photography such as weddings, portraits, and family photography. Right out of the box, it was evident that this lens is something special. So when I had the chance to try out the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 DC HSM lens for APS-C cameras for about a month, I happily jumped on the opportunity to put it to good use! Personally, I have never had a problem with third party lenses, and they make up about half of my current camera bag. Some photographers love them, some photographers choose to only purchase lenses made by their camera manufacturer. All metabones adapters are overpriced and under engineered IME.In the world of photography, there are several different schools of thought when it comes to third party lenses. Also the set screw is such a fiddly mechanism it should be replaced by simply greasing the thread on the optical group so it just stays in place when adjusted ( like the cheaper Viltrox). Although the speed boosters are adjustable I have no idea if the actual adapter thickness is also similarly critical to optimal performance. The non speed boosters are always made too thin so not only infinity is short on the scale but complex lens designs with internal focus systems perform sub optimally when not mounted at the correct distance from the sensor. Metabones adapters are another bone of contention with me. Unless I need the low light capability I find my Canon 16-35 F4 better as it’s lighter, smaller, has IS and has more balanced resolution across the frame. It’s kind of Ok now but I’m still to be convinced the optical performance is up to it’s ‘legendary’ status. It was soft on one side of the frame at 18 and on the other side at 35 and Sigma UK couldn’t fix it. My Sigma ended up back in Japan for recalibration to correct decentering. You may have to mount and remount your lens several times before you get it dialed in but if you're OCD about it you can dial it in exactly. Once the 6ft distance is right all other distances will be perfect including infinity.Īdded bonus of doing this is that the lens became parfocal as so many here have said it is. IMPORTANT, you will need to screw the screw back down each time to prevent element from shifting when lens is removed and to also prevent speedbooster from getting wedge onto your camera. I would turn the rear element slightly until I got the 6ft distance tack sharp. I placed the lens focus exactly at 6ft and started. What I did was measured out (with a tape measure) a object to focus on at 6ft. This spinning is actually on a thread and will change the distance of the rear element. There is a small screw on the back that once loosened it will allow the rear element to spin. ![]() How I resolved it was by adjusting the back focus on the speedbooster. I had your same issue, infinity was out and kept having one side of the image out of focus to the other. Which "Metabones adjustment procedure" are you referring to? I only know of the infinity adjustment, which did nothing to reduce the blur. They sent me a new ring from Hong Kong, which I replaced, but the problem persists. Since it seems that the issue has not been solved. The PL mount is by Wooden Camera, and locks/screws to their Pocket cage, eliminating the MFT mount play.Īlastair Traill wrote:I had a Sigma 18-35 that was sharp and par focal on my Nikon but not so on a Metabones BMPCC combination until I followed the Metabones adjustment procedure. I use this with a 12mm Zeiss Super Spped Mk3? Which gives me a nice two lens set to cover 12mm to 70mm. Wide open, it has a nice "soft" cine look to it. The downside, this is a big lens, but is balances well on a tripod, and I use it mostly with the AF100 camera, which is a nice fit.įor my Pocket, my go to zoom, is a 17.5-70mm PL mount Angenieux S16 zoom, smaller, lighter and very sharp when stopped down to T2.8-3.5. In good light, even the "Push to Focus" works fairly well, but I usually pull my own focus with the real manual focus (not focus by wire) focus ring. Instead, I got a bigger, but lighter, Olympus 14-35 f/2.0 Four Thirds zoom, that has very accucrate focusing, and is parfocal too. I once considered the Nikon mount version, but due to the focusing inconsistency reviews of the lens, I passed. This is especially true with the Canon EF version on non- Canon cameras, which seems to have the most issues due to its inconsistent mount specification. and better focusing performance for specific cameras. This is an issue, along with some auto focus issues, with the Sigma zoom, that's why Sigma came up with the dock, so you can readjust the front/back focus to get inf. ![]()
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